Tuesday, February 20, 2007

At the base of the mountains

Original post Jan 23, 2007 Africa, Ghana, Accra

The next morning I am woken up at 5:00 am by the muslims in a mosque right next to my lodge. I am incredibly jet-lagged and I am not able to go back to bed. I watch some TV, relax, read a bit and then I take a shower. I can't wait to go outside. I go to the little store right across the road and the girl asks "Obruni (white man) where are you from?" I tell her I am from Canada and she tells me that Canada is her second dream land. I ask which one is her first and she quickly responds America. On the way back to my lodge I see a white guy with a local. I don't pay much attention and go inside. I later find out that they are there to pick me up. We introduced to one another. Patrick is from Ashaley Botchway and he is the brother of Seth. The other guy is form Australia and his name is Ben. Both of them seem nice. Patrick tells me we are going to his house for breakfast. On the way there Ben tells me he arrived a few days before I did and that he is staying at Patrick's and Seth's house. Breaksfast is simple: bread with margarine, one scrambled egg, tea or hot cocoa, and fruit. Ben tells me unemployment in the area is rife and that Patrick is not working at the moment but not because he doesn't want to. He tells me that Patrick will take us everywhere we need to go but we must pay for his transportation. I don't mind considering everything is extremely cheap. We head to Accra that day. It is a 45 minute ride in one of the tro-tros at a cost of 50 cents per person. It is extremely hot and I count 21 people in the tro-tro including the driver. It is insane but a great experience. Accra is a crazy place. It is extremely busy. There are hundreds of street vendors especially at the red lights. Sort of like in Mexico City but multiply it by 1000. We got to a bank that gives the best rates to change my travellers cheques but the system is down so I am forced to go to Barclays. They send me with the bank manager and I tell him that I want to exchange some travellers cheques. He says he can only allow me to exchange $250US but after he saw the traveller's cheques he changed his mind. I give Patrick the thick wad of bills and hope for the best on the way back to Ashaley Botchway. On the way back to the tro-tro station Patrick takes us through the busiest street I have seen in my life. There were people walking on the street blocking the cars and hundreds of shops on both sides of the streets. People were yelling and cars and trucks were honking their horns. It seemed extremely chaotic to me but it made sense to everyone else. Ben and I are the only white people in that street and everyone stares. I feel a bit uncomfortable at times but I try to smile at everyone and I always get a smile back. Patrick buys some packaged ice cream and some plantain chips. I realized I have to suck on the ice cream baggie and that I have forgotten my hand disinfectant. So either way I am screwed. Ben doesn't seem to care and I see him suck on the bag and lick a finger. I eat and enjoy both things trying not to think of the bad stomachache I might get later on. Once at the station, we get on the tro-tro and I start getting the worst headache ever. I was hot, sweaty and extremely tired and this time they managed to squeeze 22 people in the tro-tro. I can't wait to get back to Patrick's house for some food.

Little man

Going to school

Patrick and I in the tro-tro

Accra


Patrick's mom is very nice and she carefully prepares my meals for the next few days. We eat rice or pasta, fried chicken with a spicy sauce and papaya, pineapple or oranges. The next couple of days are uneventful and I just spend them trying to assimilate that I am in Africa. Thursday night, a bunch of us head to a little bar where I am introduced to everyone. Martin and Seth ask me if I want to spend half my time at Dodowa and half at Kwahu Tafo. I agree since I want to broaden my experience as much as possible. All I know is that I don't want to spend time at Ashaley Botchway. It is extremely dry, dusty and too chaotic. All you see is red earth and very little green. They tell me I will be leaving for Dodowa on Friday morning. Patrick tells me he wll pick me up between 7:00-7:30 am to help me with my gear. It is Friday 8:30 am and I am still waiting. I grab all my stuff and head out to Patrick's house. On the way, I stop by the football pitch and I see Ben and Martin. I say good-bye to both of them and Martin sends two kids to carry my luggage. I don't let them and tell them that my bags are heavy and that I am able to to do it myself. Martin tells me again that I am their guest and all they want is to make me happy so that when I get back to my country I can tell everyone how beautiful Ghanaian people are. I feel a bit uncomfortable. I don't want black kids to carry the white man's luggage. Martin and the kids inisist and I have to agree. I stay at the pitch for a while to watch the kids train and play football. At the end of their training Ben and I are asked to say a few things. I choose my words carefully keeping in mind what Kofi said to me a few days earlier: "Please tell them to work very hard and that they will succeed in life. They will believe you because you are white". Their fascination with white people fascinates me.
I head out to Patrick's house where he serves me and Ben the same breakfast. A guy named Henry comes in without saying hello to Ben or me. He is the one that is taking me to Dodowa. He doesn't offer to help me and I don't expect him to. At the end he offers to carry my small bag and I accept. Having a 20kg. bag in your back when it is 30 degrees is not easy. We head to the tro-tro station and find the tro-tro that is going to take us to Dodowa. There is a local couple with some bags waiting to get into the tro-tro but unfortunately the white man has priority and the tro-tro guys put my luggage at the back. There is no more space for luggage. I try to tell the tro-tro guys that I can wait but Henry is already inside and he tells me to get in. We get off in Medina which is not a very nice place. We walk for 10 minutes and everyone is looking at me. Some people wave, others yell "obruni", and others just stare as though they are hoping for the white man to aknowledge them and smile. When we get to the next tro-tro station, the guys tell Henry that I can't put my bag at the back so I end up carrying my huge bag on my lap for the next 45 minutes. It is no fun but I am amazed at what I see when we get out of Medina. We are heading to the mountains. There is greenery everywhere you turn. It is amazing. Henry and I finally make it to Dodowa. It is a beautiful place. The rain forest is just 15 minutes away. Henry takes me to the school where Seth is the Director. He calls for a staff meeting where I am introduced to eveyone. He then calls for a student assembly and I am introduced as the new English teacher. Everyone is happy and amazed to have a white teacher around them. Later on, Seth takes me to my dorm. It is a very simple room consisting of one bed and one desk/table. I don't need anyhting else. I get a bit melancholic when I see the place for it reminds me of the house where my dad was born. I put my gear down and get ready to go outside.

PS Please bear with me. Internet connection is extremely slow and blackouts are common.
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Downtown Accra

Ben and Patrick

Patrick and I

Ashaley-Botchway

Training in Ashaley-Botchway

My room in Dodowa

My room in Dodowa

ICCES

The classrooms

The classrooms

Seth and I

Jeff and I

Lights out in Dodowa

Madame Paulina

Little man in Dodowa

Kids

Klang Martulis Soccer Academy

Tailor in Dodowa

Welcome to darkness

Original post Jan 16, 2007 Africa, Ghana, Accra

While on the plane to Accra, I kept saying to myself "You are going to Africa". I was a bit nervous about it but I had been looking forward to it for over 6 months so I didn't let the anxiety take over me. The plane landed at 9:00 pm and after I got out of the plane I could feel the intense heat of Ghana. It was 33C and all my clothes were inapropriate for the occasion. I went directly to customs and there must have been about 100 people waiting. There were a few Canucks but they were as interested in me as I was interested in them so we didn't talk to one another. I went to pick up my luggage and to exchanged a few dollars into cedis. It is hard to conceal the money: $100 US=45 bills of 20 000 cedis. I went down the ramp and I was hoping to see someone waiting for me at the bottom of it. There were a few people there with signs that read Johnson family or Abigail but none had my name on it. I won't lie I was afraid. A security guard approches me and asks if I want a cab I say no, then he asks if someone is picking me up and I tell him that some friends are coming so he tells me that I am not allowed to stay inside and that I should exit through the door on the right. It is 10:30 and it is pitch black and all I can see are hundreds of people outside the airport waiting. As soon as I got out the door I see a guy with a sign reading "Ulise Huerga Munoz". I know that is me and I feel relieved. They come to help me with my bags and I introduced myself. They were Martin, Seth, Richardson and Ben. They had chartered a taxi and we start driving towards God knows where. I reach for my seat belt but I can't find it so I hold on to the door as tight as I can. The city is pitch black. Lights are out. I am not able to see a thing. They say that it has been so dry that the water level in the Volta dam is so low that there is not sufficient electricity generated to light up the city. They tell me the place where we are heading is called Ashaley Botchway and it is 25 minutes away. At 11:00 pm we arrived to a lodge and Martin tells me this is where I will be spending my first 3 days. I get out of the car and pick up my bag but Martin won't let me. He wants to carry it for me. I tell him I can do it but he insists and I don't argue. I don't want to be rude. "You are my guest" he says as we walk into the lodge. There is no light in Ashaley Botchway either so we go in and the guys at the reception shine a light on my face. I get my key and Martin takes me to my room. He takes my bags in and asks if I am hungry. I tell him I am thirsty and he goes and buys me a bottle of water. He says good bye. I go to bed but I can't sleep. All I can think of now is Africa and what lies ahead for me.

Ready to go

Original post Jan. 15, 2007 Vancouver

*Hep A check
*Hep B check
*Diphtheria check
*Tetanus check
*Polio check
*Yellow Fever check
*Cholera check
*Typhoid check
*Malaria check
*Camera check
*Rosary and Virgen de Guadalupe check
*Open mind check
Am I forgetting something?


Proud Mexican

Proud Canadian

Last day with friends

Original post Jan. 13, 2007 Vancouver
It was a crazy day but I managed to hang out with my friends.


Capuccino at the Drive with Michelle

M&I at Cactus Club
Shanawaz, Geoff, Alicia, Raj, Guy, and Iva
Thanks Iva for the bracelet

Hapa Izakaya on Robson
Debbie and Tanya

Hapa Izakaya on Robson
Sharon and Mijie
Thanks Sharon for the Inukshuk

Hapa Izakaya on Robson
Rodney and Ed

At the "Palafox"
Moni

At the "Palafox"
Dani

At the "Palafox"
Mariana

At the "Palafox"
Doris

Granville Room
La Doris

Granville Room
Miguelongo, Moni, and Dani

Granville Room
Jorch and I

Granville Room
Moni and I

Granville Room
Miguelongo and I

Granville Room
La Dani

A bit about Tafo

Original post Jan. 11, 2007 Vancouver

Kwahu-Tafo is one of a group of towns on the high Kwahu plateau, about three hours' drive to the North West of the capital Accra. It has approximately 5,500 inhabitants with an unemployment rate of 80%. This means that many children cannot attend school for lack of money for books and uniforms. Also many of the schools are in a poor physical and financial state. The indigenous tongue is Twi, one of the Akan family of languages.
Kwahu is the name given to both the area and the local tribe, the Kwahu people having established their identity when they separated from the belligerent Ashanti Empire and removed to the mountain range that lies between the Ashanti capital Kumasi and the great expanse of the Volta Lake.
The Kwahu Ridge contains some of the highest ground in Ghana, and some remarkable geological features such as Buruku, a towering sacred rock.
In Ghana, there being no written historical culture, the wisdom of the ages is enshrined in the oral tradition of proverbs.
It is the human being that counts. I call gold; it does not answer. I call cloth; it does not answer. It is the human being that counts.


Tafo kids



Tafo children

All you can eat!

Original post Jan. 6, 2007 Vancouver
We went to All You Can Eat at Shabusen on Robson and Burrard to celebrate my going away. Sometimes I wonder whether they lose money when people like us go there and feast.


Shawn, Idi, Tano, Anita and Mili



He'll eat an entire cow!
I am serious. Just ask him about our last trip to Samba Brazilian Steak House



Mili, Alan, Dad, Mom, Aunt Betty and Tamariyaki

Sunday, February 18, 2007

Mexican Christmas

Original post Dec. 24, 2006

Perfect time to spend quality time with the fam, drink Negra Modelo and pig out on my mom's and Shawn's food.


My aunt thinks we are freezing!

My beautiful Mom and me

My always-smiling Dad and me

My sister Mili and me



My sister Idi and me

Tamariyaki and me

My cousin Tano and me

My aunt Betty and me

My brother-in-law Chris and me

Mili and Alan

Lee, my brother-in-law Shawn and me

Shawn's precious bottle!
I can almost never say no to tequila!